Sharpologist recently took a fresh look at shaving soaps, which have come a long way over the past decade. I of course succumbed and bought several from his list of the best, and one has arrived: Phoenix Artisan’s Formula CK-6, here in the Doppelgänger Oxblood label, a recreation of Penhaligon’s Sartorial fragrance:
CK-6 is the result of some serious exploration of various fats, and the formula includes Kokum Butter, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Jojoba Wax, Bacuri Butter, Cupuacu Butter, and Murumuru Butter. Phoenix Artisan explains:
Bacuri Butter: is very popular in the north of Brazil, it comes from the seeds of a beloved local fruit with a rich pulp, and flavor.
Bacuri butter has a high absorption rate, due to its high level of tripalmitin (50% to 55%), which penetrates the skin quickly. The high amount of fatty palmitoleic acid (5%), compared to other oils (less than or equal to 0.5 to 1.5%), makes the Bacuri oil a fantastic emollient, and a super moisturizing agent. Think killer post shave feel!
Capuacu Butter: is a close cousin to the cacao plant, the trees and fruits are similar, however, cupuacu has a richer pulp. Cupuacu butter is naturally softer than cacao, therefore easier to use, and offers more benefits than the cocoa butter.
Cupuacu butter has very high water absorption capacity (Over 200% Greater Than Lanolin)- Read that again. Due to its capacity for water absorption and the ability to obstruct the evaporation of moisture from the skin, Cupuaçu butter just might be one of the best moisturizing ingredients available. (take that Lanolin!) Fun Fact: Chocolate can also be made from cupuacu – it is called “cupulate”.
Murumuru Butter: is a phenomenally slick butter that gives a most excellent skin feel and slip. It is called the “vegetable silicone” for its ability to rapidly replace mineral silicon in the dermis. It comes from the seeds of a palm tree that is very abundant in the wet regions of the Amazon forest.
Murumuru Butter is also rich in vitamin A and C and Omega fatty acids 3, 6, and 9. The main fatty acid found in this butter is called Lauric acid (at an astonishing 47%) It also has myristic acid, oleic, palmitic and linoleic acids.
When these 3 sisters combine with Kokum, Cocoa, Jojoba & Shea you get some serious Premium, Luxury, Fatty Lather; killer creamy, slick, buttery goodness that possesses Superb Residual Slickness and Earth Shattering Post Shave Feel! You will not even need to use a balm after and good luck keeping your hands off your face all day!
As to the Doppelgänger name:
We created The Doppelgänger Collection or in plain English, a Clone Line or series of some popular fragrances that a lot of you really enjoy. It was also the perfect scent to introduce our New CK-6 Formula with. So far we have Sauvage (Dior) , Sartorial (Penhaligon’s) and Chaps (Ralph Lauren) ready to go but I do believe if this series is a success, you will see more of these modern classics popping up.
With that as background, I turn now to the shave. I like this fragrance, but fragrances are very much YMMV. It smells better in the lather than on the puck, FWIW.
And that lather! It truly is remarkably good. I am seriously trying to cut back on shaving soaps, but after this shave I am thinking I somehow need more CK-6 shaving soaps. I’m very impressed. Thick, slick, wonderful lather that leaves my skin feeling exceptionally nice.
I don’t recall the provenance of the razor I used, but it clearly is an Edwin Jagger head on some stainless handle. It did a fine job, and the splash of Doppelgänger Oxblood aftershave renewed the fragrance and finished the job with flair.
I highly recommend the CK-6 formula. Really striking.